Visiting Comino: A Complete Guide to the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Nestled between Malta and Gozo, Comino is a tiny yet enchanting island steeped in history and natural beauty. Its size may be small—barely 3.5 square kms—but its allure lies in its unspoiled landscapes, turquoise waters, and magical ambiance.

Comino is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. The island is a designated bird sanctuary and nature reserve, making it a vital stop for migratory birds. You can spot species like the Yelkouan Shearwater, Blue Rock Thrush, and Sardinian Warbler.

Reptiles such as the cute Maltese Wall Lizard, Mediterranean Chameleon, and Moorish Gecko also call Comino home. If you are lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of the Western Black Whip Snake. In spring and summer, butterflies like the Swallowtail and Painted Lady add a splash of colour to the landscape.

Comino’s history is as fascinating as its natural beauty!

• Ancient Times: Known as Ephaestia in Ancient Greek, Comino was inhabited by farmers during Roman times.

• Middle Ages: The island was sparsely populated and often used as a base by pirates and marauders due to its caves and coves.

• 1285-1290: Served as the home of Abraham Abulafia, a Jewish prophet and Kabbalist, who wrote significant works there.

• Knights of St. John Era: Used as hunting grounds for wild boar and hares. Poaching was strictly punished, and errant knights were sometimes exiled to man St. Mary’s Tower.

• French and British Periods: Briefly occupied by the French (1798-1800) before becoming part of the British Empire in 1800.

• Modern Times: Now a nature reserve and bird sanctuary, with a population of just two residents.

  
  

  Past Hotel History

  
  

• Comino Hotel and Bungalows: Built in the 1960s by the Comino Development Company Ltd., the Comino Hotel was the island's first major accommodation option. It was designed to attract both local and international tourists for longer stays, offering a peaceful retreat away from the busier islands of Malta and Gozo. The hotel was located near St. Nicholas Bay, alongside several summer bungalows for a more private experience.

• Peak Popularity: During its heyday, the hotel hosted numerous visitors, providing a base for exploring Comino's natural beauty and enjoying its tranquil environment.

• Decline: Over time, the hotel and bungalows became outdated and fell into disrepair. By 2019, the hotel had closed its doors, leaving the island without any operational accommodations.

My first visit to Comino in 1979 feels like a snapshot from a dream. Back then, it was pure, an untouched paradise. Only a few boats would grace its shores, and the beaches were gloriously free of crowded sunbeds and there were no bustling vendors. It was just the island in its serene, unspoiled beauty. I can still picture the lizards—magnificent creatures, as large as driftwood, basking in the undisturbed peace. Stepping onto that island from the boat felt like entering another world, rugged, untouched, one where nature still reigned supreme. Those were truly magical days.

Fast forward to 2025, visiting Comino now has its upsides, downsides, and challenges.

This comprehensive guide will give you a closer look at the good, the bad, and the ugly of visiting Comino, which will fully help you to plan your trip.

First up,

The Good: Why Comino Captivates Visitors

Comino boasts countless reasons to love it:

• Unparalleled Natural Beauty: The crystalline waters of the Blue Lagoon and Crystal Lagoon rival those of the Caribbean, surrounded by rugged cliffs and golden sunlight. These waters are perfect for swimming, snorkelling, and diving.

• Rich and Diverse Wildlife: Despite its small size, Comino is home to some fascinating wildlife. The island's unique wall lizards (Podarcis filfolensis) are cute, and bird enthusiasts can spot migratory species, as Comino serves as a vital bird sanctuary. Wildflowers and endemic plants add bursts of colour in spring.

• Peace and Tranquility: This is rare but achievable, check my hints and tips below. With only two permanent residents and no cars, Comino offers a serene retreat for those seeking to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of modern life.

• Historical Charm: St. Mary’s Tower, the Santa Marija Battery, and Santa Marija Chapel each offer a glimpse into Comino's storied past, from medieval pirates to the Knights of St. John.

• Diving and Snorkelling: The underwater world around Comino teems with marine life, coral formations, and even shipwrecks. Santa Marija Caves are an underwater paradise for those seeking adventure.

Next,

The Bad: The Challenges Us Visitors Face

While Comino shines in many areas, there are challenges that need to be considered:

• Overcrowding: The Blue Lagoon, Comino's most iconic attraction, is a victim of its own popularity. During peak summer months, weekends and public holidays, the lagoon becomes utterly swamped with tourists, boats, sunbeds packed like sardines and fast food vendors galore. This totally detracts from the otherwise serene experience. The crazy amount of people visiting each day leaves very little room to find anywhere to comfortably settle.   

• Access: The island is reachable only by boat. Ferries can be infrequent, full, run to their own timetable, and rough seas occasionally make the journey bumpy and challenging. The paths and tracks are quite rugged, scattered with rocks and pebbles, which can make getting around tricky. Unfortunately, the terrain is not very accommodating for those with mobility concerns, which is something to keep in mind when planning a visit.

Images courtesy of Times of Malta and Malta Independant

Lastly,

The Ugly: Environmental and Safety Concerns

Some aspects of Comino's growing popularity reveal extremely pressing issues:

• Environmental Degradation: Over-tourism has strained Comino’s delicate ecosystems. Littering, the trampling of wildflowers, and excessive boat traffic disturb both the landscape and wildlife.

• Discarded Pineapples: The bizarre result of a tourist Instagram trend, a refillable EUR20 cocktail served in a hollowed-out pineapple leaves behind a significant waste issue. I adore a pina colada and have really enjoyed one of these cocktails but disposed of the pineapple respectfully in the bin afterwards. However, you will see them discarded everywhere, and while lizards and insects may benefit from the leftover fruit, the rotting waste also attracts rats, wasps and disrupts the island’s ecosystem. Please do be careful when approaching a bin here as they are generally swarming with wasps, which really do give a nasty old sting.

• Jellyfish Hazards: Talking of stings, jellyfish are a common sight around Comino, especially during the warmer months. The waters around the island, including the Blue Lagoon, can sometimes experience jellyfish blooms, particularly of the mauve stinger variety. These blooms are influenced by factors like water temperature and currents. While jellyfish add to the marine ecosystem's diversity, they can pose a challenge for swimmers and snorkellers. It's always a good idea to check local updates or ask boat operators about jellyfish activity before diving in. If you're stung, to remove the barbs, scrape a credit card across the affected area, then rinse with seawater - applying a cold pack can also help alleviate discomfort.

• Noise and Crowds: I would like to say this is limited to just the peak summer months, weekends and public holidays, but alas sadly not. Do not expect a quiet oasis - it's a total assault on the senses. Expect boat parties, loud music, and noise pollution due to overcrowding, also air pollution – the smell of boat diesel can be overpowering. Locals who for years, very much looked forward to their own trips to the island every summer now tend to avoid visiting, especially in the warmer months. Santa Marija Bay used to be a lovely little sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle but sadly the hoards have now also discovered this little gem too.

Tried and Tested Insider Tips

I'm delighted to share valuable tips from my more than 40 years of visiting Comino, aimed at helping you have the most enjoyable and fulfilling experience possible.

• Plan to arrive early in peak season! Set your alarm to catch the first ferry from either Mgarr in Gozo or Cirkewwa in Malta to Comino. This is the best way to experience the Blue Lagoon's stunning crystal-clear turquoise waters. The tour boats won't arrive until at least 11 am, so you'll want to leave by then. Either take the ferry back to Malta or head over to Gozo for a leisurely lunch, an afternoon of exploration, and an early evening fast ferry back to Valletta for dinner – the perfect day! Alternatively, you can charter a private boat tour and arrive / depart at your convenience.

• Visit Off-Season and Discover Beyond the Blue Lagoon: Comino is a beautiful island perfect for exploring on foot. During the summer, the intense heat makes this nearly impossible, but in the off-season, you can explore to your heart's content. Arrive early, as there's plenty to uncover, including breathtaking views, hidden coves, and historical sites, all without the crowds. I always bring a picnic to enjoy while overlooking one of the many panoramic vistas.

Here are some hiking trails to consider:

1. Blue Lagoon to St. Mary’s Tower

   • Distance: 3kms round trip

   • Highlights: A scenic walk to the historic tower, offering panoramic views of the island and surrounding sea.

   • Difficulty: Easy.

2. Santa Marija Bay to Santa Marija Caves

   • Distance: 2kms round trip

   • Highlights: Serene beaches and stunning sea caves. Ideal for a relaxing hike and an opportunity to enjoy some snorkelling, weather permitting.

   • Difficulty: Moderate.

3. Round Comino Trail

   • Distance: 8.8kms

   • Highlights: This comprehensive loop covers all major attractions, including Crystal Lagoon, St. Mary’s Tower, Santa Marija Bay, Santa Marija Battery, and hidden coves.

   • Difficulty: Moderate.

   • Duration: 2.5–3.5 hours.

   
   

1. Choose your tour boat carefully – If taking a tour boat is your only option to visit Comino, be sure to select your operator wisely, as the Blue Lagoon will be extremely crowded by the time you get there, and you'll likely need to unwind onboard instead of on the island. 

2. Please come prepared: If you're planning to walk or hike, make sure to bring the essentials: a hat, water, jacket, sunscreen, snacks, and sturdy shoes, as flip flops are not suitable. You can legally visit Cominotto, the small islet across from Comino. It's a popular destination for those looking for a quieter alternative to the Blue Lagoon. Cominotto is uninhabited and can be reached by swimming or kayaking from Comino, as the distance is quite short. However, there are no facilities on the islet, so ensure you have everything you need.

1. Respect the Environment: Help preserve Comino’s beauty by taking all litter home with you and avoid disturbing the local wildlife.

2. Snorkel Prepared: Carry your own snorkelling gear to explore the underwater world at Santa Marija Caves and the quieter lagoons.

3. Don’t forget your camera! I highly recommend packing a waterproof bag to protect it from the elements, along with a spare battery. There will be countless breath-taking moments and stunning scenery that you’ll want to capture, so being prepared ensures you won’t miss a thing.

4. You can camp on Comino: Santa Marija Bay is a favoured spot for camping enthusiasts, offering designated tent areas. This location is especially appealing during the off-season, providing a tranquil escape from the crowds. S

Hidden Gems: Discover Comino’s Secret Treasures

Go beyond the crowds to explore the island’s lesser-known wonders:

• Crystal Lagoon: A quieter spot perfect for snorkelling and diving, with dramatic cliffs and clear, calm waters.

• Popeye’s Cave: Named after the cartoon character, this hidden cave is ideal for adventurous explorers.

• Cominotto Viewpoint: Breath-taking views of the nearby islet of Cominotto make this a peaceful escape.

• Window Cave: A unique natural arch that provides a perfect photo opportunity.

Here is some more information about Comino's historic sites that you might find intriguing:

• St. Mary’s Tower: Built in 1618 by the Knights of St. John, this iconic watchtower served as a defensive structure against pirates and Ottoman forces. It offers panoramic views of the island and surrounding seas.

• Santa Marija Battery: A coastal artillery battery constructed in the early 18th century, also by the Knights of St. John. It was part of the island's defensive network.

• Santa Marija Chapel: A small, charming chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, dating back to the 17th century. It was used by the island's sparse population for worship.

• World War II Relics: Comino played a minor role during World War II, and you can still find remnants of military installations and shelters scattered across the island.

These sites reflect Comino's rich history and strategic importance over the centuries

Conclusion: Is Comino Worth It?

Comino is an island of contrasts, where breath-taking natural beauty meets challenges stemming from its popularity. If you plan your trip thoughtfully, avoid peak times, and explore its hidden corners, you’ll uncover the true magic of the island. Whether it’s hiking to hidden gems, diving into crystal-clear waters, or soaking in the island’s serene atmosphere, Comino offers a unique and unforgettable experience.